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It is not possible to look at Smalley without considering the years of the Framework Knitters (FWK).
There is much available on the internet about FWKs in Leicestershire and Nottinghamshire but very little regarding Derbyshire. This is my attempt to describe what was essentially a cottage industry in Smalley. The hand knitting of woollen goods had been in existence for centuries but it was not until the arrival of silk stockings from France in Tudor times, that a silk stocking industry began in England. This was due to the invention of a stocking frame by William Lee, a Nottinghamshire curate, in 1590. The early years of Framework Knitting were mainly centred around London and it was the controls and regulations imposed by the Guild of Framework Knitters, plus the cheaper production costs, that saw the move to the East Midlands by the mid 1600s. By the end of the 17th century silk stocking production was well established in mainly Derbyshire, Leicestershire and Nottinghamshire, and by the early 1800s the majority of the 45,000 Knitting Frames in the country were in these areas. Leicestershire produced mainly worsted garments; Nottinghamshire mainly cotton, as in Nottingham Lace, and Derbyshire produced mainly silk garments - although in an area such as Smalley, it is common to find both silk and cotton FWKs. An article on Framework Knitting describes the beginnings of the FWK Industry ; images of Knitting Frames, and more, can be found on the Wigston site There were a variety of reasons for the enormous growth of Framework Knitting as a cottage industry. During the 18th century increasing levels of rural poverty existed, due to poor harvests and high prices, and the effects of the Enclosures; added to the increasing demand for their work, this was an occupation that the whole family could, and often did, take part in. However, this was not an easy option for poor families. The frames were mostly rented from the hosiers and had to be maintained, repaired and adapted for different types of work, and payment for their work was very low. Economic condtions often determined the amount of work available; hosiers 'stinted' work, sharing out available work without any reduction in frame rents. 'Trucking' was another way in which income was kept low; the hosier's middle-man, often a local trader, paid the FWKs in goods or further supplies. This led to longer working hours and increased output. The resulting overproduction and shortage of work, combined with the increasing mechanisation of the industry in factories, led to the decline of Framework Knitting as a cottage industry. This chain of events had considerable effect on Smalley, starting with the Enclosure of arable land, probably about 1770, although this was of benefit to the tenant farmers. It was the Enclosure in 1784, involving the partitioning of Common land in Smalley, that caused the poorer cottagers the most privation. Facing starvation, the stricken cottagers were glad to welcome itinerant FWKs as lodgers and so learn the skill themselves. Within a few years, framework knitting, producing the then fashionable stockings, became the principle occupation of the villagers of Smalley. Although knitting frames could be found throughout Smalley, it is thought that the centre of the industry was around Bell Lane Farm, in the middle of the village. Looking at the Smalley census for 1801, and 1841 - 1891, gives an idea of the numbers of FWKs and the growth and decline of framework knitting.
Although figures are not available from 1801 to 1841, it is possible to see part of the growth by looking at the parish baptism records. Between 1813 and 1830, more than 50 men were recorded as being FWKs. On the 1841 census there 39 individuals recorded as being FWKs and 16 households had more than one; however, there were 20 households where there was a single FWK recorded, though children of the age of scholars are likely to have been working at some of the tasks involved in framework knitting. A report in 1844 on the Conditions of Framework Knitters found that physical conditions of the people were 'appalling'. The children were ill fed and badly clothed and were put to work by their parents as soon they were able, the boys to winding and the girls to seaming, sometimes as early as the age of 5 years. Despite their poor living and working conditions, by 1851 there were 149 recorded FWKs on the census, the peak time of the industry in Smalley. This included 8 single persons; 28 families with one person recorded as a FWK, and 33 households with 2 or more FWKs. There are some interesting details to be found in this census - Samuel Turton, 23, of Smalley - framesmith William Haynes, 53, from Heanor - Chelsea Pensioner & FWK Joseph Cresswell, 28, of Smalley - farmer of 7 acres & FWK Thomas Holbrook, 69, from Horsley Woodhouse - farmer of 12 acres & FWK John Cresswell, 37, of Smalley - Farmer of 4 acres & Master FWK Elizabeth Morrill, 37 of Smalley - Farmer's wife; husband Joseph was the FWK Lydia Fletcher, 3, of Smalley - FWK (though this may be an enumerator's mistake, her grandparents & and mother were all FWKs) William Beeston, 49, from Lancaster - Grocer & Master FWK employing 3 men There were a total of 12 Master FWK, some with their families working with them, others employing hands or FWK journeymen; one employee is worth mentioning, as journeywomen were not common at that time - Mary Ealey, 35, from Heanor, FWK Journeywoman. It can be seen from these examples that some individuals and families relied entirely on their output of stockings for their livelihood; others were able to supplement their income with small holdings or farms, and a few others were able to become small businessmen, providing employment for others. I wonder if William Beeston was a 'stinting' middleman? By 1861 the numbers had dropped to dramatically to 78 - 11 single individuals; 33 families with 1 FWK, and 27 households with at least two. William Haynes is still a Chelsea Pensioner and FWK William Beeson, 61, from Eaton Norris, Lancs, is still a grocer & FWK Joseph Cresswell, 37, of Smalley - is a farmer of 8 acres & Poor Rate collector & FWK (and incidentally, the census enumerator) By 1871 the numbers had dropped again, to 68 - 12 single individuals; 24 families with 1 FWK, and 16 households with 2 or more. By 1881 there were just 15 people in Smalley recorded as FWKs and these were predominantly elderly; of the 7 men, the ages ranged from 50 to 71, with one unemployed and one retired; the ages of the women ranged from one of 18, living with her FWK father, to 74. By 1891 there were only 5 FWK and 2 were retired; the three men were 60, 68 and 79 and of the women, the youngest was 27 and a silk FWK. How many of them were working in factories is not possible to say but it is likely that by that time, framework knitting as a cottage industry had completely disappeared from Smalley. Apart from the large and moderately sized farms, mining was the major source of employment for the men of Smalley. The Knitting Together site gives a comprehensive view of the knitting industry in the East Midlands. | |
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